Hydra has been part of my life for a long time. I’ve spent almost every summer here for the past 15 years, and over time, it’s become more than just a holiday spot. I’ve built so many memories here— slow mornings, long dinners, and familiar walks that never really change - and really got to know it from the inside out. It really is “my favorite place on earth” and I love it year round.

The island has always attracted artists and writers, and it’s easy to see why. Some of my favorite books were written here, inspired by the quiet, the light, and the pace of life. Hydra moves at its own speed. You’ll either get it or you won’t — but if it clicks with you, you’ll keep coming back.

Getting to and around Hydra

Hydra is also super easy to get to — just a short ferry ride from Athens. It’s a popular weekend spot for Athenians and also doable as a day trip… though honestly, one day won’t feel like enough. If you are visiting for the first time. four to five days are the perfect start but I’ve spent entire months here and never wanted to leave.

There are no cars or bikes on the islands, so walking and climbing stairs is how you get around. You can also use sea taxis to access beaches and smaller villages around the island. And just a note: please, please skip the donkey rides, especially in the summer heat.

Where to eat in Hydra

Giasemi - Our favorite taverna on the island, offering the most authentic flavors at reasonable prices. Specializing in daily-prepared meat dishes, it’s our go-to spot for a casual dinner.
Sunset - One of the island’s most iconic dining spots with breathtaking views. You can’t miss it, as you’ll pass through on your way to Hydronetta (more on that later). The food is elevated Greek cuisine, but it’s the stunning sunset views that make it a must-visit.
Omilos - Probably the best location on the island as it is situated right above the sea rocks. This used to be the legendary club "Lagoudera", opened in 1959, where you would find all the stars of that time dancing the night away. The food is very contemporary Mediterranean and it is on pricier side but the setting is unforgettable.
Taverna Marina at Vlychos - Perfect for those willing to take a longer 45-minute walk to enjoy a traditional seaside meal. This taverna, one of the oldest on the island, has been operating since 1963 under Marina Lembesi. You can always take a sea taxi back if you feel sleepy after dinner but the walk under the stars is definitely a memorable experience.
Il Casta - While you might not come to Greece for Italian food, this place has become a Hydra classic. Beloved by artists and long-time visitors, it offers an intimate dining experience in a secluded garden with high-quality food. We’ve been coming here since the beginning and are pleasantly surprised every time.
Pefkaki - Ideal for lunch in the quintessential “Greek summer” setting. Note that the kitchen closes at 4:30 PM.
Karamela - We love Karamela for an afternoon ice cream (they have amazing sorbets) and their apricot pasta flora (it's a jam tart, also known as crostata!).

Coffee and drinks in Hydra

The Pirate Bar - Founded in 1976, this iconic spot is great any time of day, but it really comes alive in the evenings. Enjoy a morning coffee or an evening cocktail.
Hydronetta - Visit in the late afternoon to secure a good spot for the sunset. The views are spectacular as the sun dips below the horizon. You can also spend the entire day here with a good book and regular swim breaks in between chapters.
Windmill Bar - Head here just before sunset to enjoy drinks with a stunning view. It’s a perfect way to end the day.
1821 - This place is ideal for evening drinks and people-watching. The atmosphere is vibrant and lively as the night progresses.

Art and culture in Hydra

Hydra has long been as an art destination with its bustling community of artists and landmark art institutions like the DESTE Foundation.

DESTE Foundation - The DESTE Foundation has turned the island's old slaughterhouse into a vibrant Project Space, bringing amazing art from all over the world to this little island in the Saronic Gulf.
Hydra School Project - The Hydra School Project by artist and curator Dimitris Antonitsis celebrated its 25th edition this year. It is traditionally set in Hydra's High School.
Hydra Book Club - Founded and run by American literary curator Josh Hickey, the Hydra Book Club celebrates literature connected to Hydra. Set in the Historic Archives Museum of Hydra from September to October, it offers a wide selection of classic books and rare editions. If you end up spending a longer time on the island, you’ll come to appreciate the seemingly endless supply of amazing books you can find.
Lazaros Kountouriotis Historical Mansion - Formerly owned one of Hydra's most important political figures, the residence now operates as a museum.
Artist T etsis Home and Studio - The house and atelier of Hydriot painter Panayotis Tetsis is a must. It's a "typical hydriot home of the 19th- early 20th c. and was also used for the family’s professional activities: one aisle of the ground floor was devoted to a traditional candle manufactory and grocery shop-tavern".

Where to stay in Hydra

Bratsera Hotel - Once a sponge factory established by the Verveniotis family in 1860, this space has been lovingly restored into a beautiful and unique hotel. Located just two minutes from the port, it features 25 rooms showcasing traditional Hydriot architecture, a magnificent garden, and a pool.
Cactus Hydra Apartments - These artfully designed apartments offer a modern stay in Hydra. Located in the heart of the island, they provide easy access to local attractions and dining options.
Orloff Boutique Hotel - Housed in a historic mansion, this boutique hotel features spacious suites, many with separate living areas, and a beautiful courtyard where breakfast is served.

Bonus points: there are no stairs to get to these hotels which you will come to appreciate after spending a few days here.

Where to swim in Hydra

Hydra offers some fantastic swimming spots that cater to different preferences. The rocks between Spilia and Hydronetta are perfect for those who enjoy diving straight into the deep blue sea from concrete platforms or rocks. Further away, Avlaki Beach, located under Techne, is a small pebbly beach with concrete platforms, ideal for a more relaxed swim.

For a more tranquil experience, taking a boat to the back beaches like Bisti is a great choice. Bisti Beach is known for its clear waters and tranquil environment, making it a perfect escape from the more crowded spots.

More things to do in Hydra

One of my favorite things to do here is walk (well you have no choice!) but also hike. If you visit during fall or spring, I really recommend the Mount Eros hike taking you to the top of the island. The hike takes around 4 hours in total and the views at the top will reward all that effort. I would strongly suggest avoiding this hike during summer (we first did it on a very hot July morning and let’s just say I still regret it).

Read about Hydra

One thing I always look forward to on Hydra is visiting the Hydra Book Club, a seasonal pop-up curated by Josh Hickey. Every summer, he puts together a thoughtful collection of titles, and over the years, I’ve discovered some of my all-time favorite books there.

If you're in the mood to read and want something that connects you to the island and its atmosphere, I highly recommend these: Peel Me a Lotus by Charmian Clift, The Colossus of Maroussi by Henry Miller, and The Greek Islands by Lawrence Durrell.

My Greek Summer Journal

My guide to Hydra island