My guide to Hydra island

Hydra has been part of my life for a long time. I’ve spent almost every summer here for the past 15 years, and over time, it’s become more than just a holiday spot. I’ve built so many memories here— slow mornings, long dinners, and familiar walks that never really change - and really got to know it from the inside out. It really is “my favorite place on earth” and I love it year round.

The island has always attracted artists and writers, and it’s easy to see why. Some of my favorite books were written here, inspired by the quiet, the light, and the pace of life. Hydra moves at its own speed. You’ll either get it or you won’t — but if it clicks with you, you’ll keep coming back.

Getting to and around Hydra

Hydra is also super easy to get to — just a short ferry ride from Athens. It’s a popular weekend spot for Athenians and also doable as a day trip… though honestly, one day won’t feel like enough. If you are visiting for the first time. four to five days are the perfect start but I’ve spent entire months here and never wanted to leave.

There are no cars or bikes on the islands, so walking and climbing stairs is how you get around. You can also use sea taxis to access beaches and smaller villages around the island. And just a note: please, please skip the donkey rides, especially in the summer heat.

Where to eat in Hydra

• Giasemi - Our favorite taverna on the island, offering the most authentic flavors at reasonable prices. Specializing in daily-prepared meat dishes, it’s our go-to spot for a casual dinner.

• Sunset - One of the island’s most iconic dining spots with breathtaking views. You can’t miss it, as you’ll pass through on your way to Hydronetta (more on that later). The food is elevated Greek cuisine, but it’s the stunning sunset views that make it a must-visit.

• Omilos - Probably the best location on the island as it is situated right above the sea rocks. This used to be the legendary club "Lagoudera", opened in 1959, where you would find all the stars of that time dancing the night away. The food is very contemporary Mediterranean and it is on pricier side but the setting is unforgettable. 

• Taverna Marina at Vlychos - Perfect for those willing to take a longer 45-minute walk to enjoy a traditional seaside meal. This taverna, one of the oldest on the island, has been operating since 1963 under Marina Lembesi. You can always take a sea taxi back if you feel sleepy after dinner but the walk under the stars is definitely a memorable experience.

• Il Casta - While you might not come to Greece for Italian food, this place has become a Hydra classic. Beloved by artists and long-time visitors, it offers an intimate dining experience in a secluded garden with high-quality food. We’ve been coming here since the beginning and are pleasantly surprised every time.

• Pefkaki -  Ideal for lunch in the quintessential “Greek summer” setting. Note that the kitchen closes at 4:30 PM.

• Karamela - We love Karamela for an afternoon ice cream (they have amazing sorbets) and their apricot pasta flora (it's a jam tart, also known as crostata!).

Coffee and drinks in Hydra

• The Pirate Bar - Founded in 1976, this iconic spot is great any time of day, but it really comes alive in the evenings. Enjoy a morning coffee or an evening cocktail.

• Hydronetta - Visit in the late afternoon to secure a good spot for the sunset. The views are spectacular as the sun dips below the horizon. You can also spend the entire day here with a good book and regular swim breaks in between chapters.

• Windmill Bar - Head here just before sunset to enjoy drinks with a stunning view. It’s a perfect way to end the day.

• 1821 - This place is ideal for evening drinks and people-watching. The atmosphere is vibrant and lively as the night progresses.

Art and culture in Hydra

Hydra has long been as an art destination with its bustling community of artists and landmark art institutions like the DESTE Foundation.

• DESTE Foundation - The DESTE Foundation has turned the island's old slaughterhouse into a vibrant Project Space, bringing amazing art from all over the world to this little island in the Saronic Gulf.

• Hydra School Project - The Hydra School Project by artist and curator Dimitris Antonitsis celebrated its 25th edition this year. It is traditionally set in Hydra's High School. 

• Hydra Book Club - Founded and run by American literary curator Josh Hickey, the Hydra Book Club celebrates literature connected to Hydra. Set in the Historic Archives Museum of Hydra from September to October, it offers a wide selection of classic books and rare editions. If you end up spending a longer time on the island, you’ll come to appreciate the seemingly endless supply of amazing books you can find.

• Lazaros Kountouriotis Historical Mansion - Formerly owned one of Hydra's most important political figures, the residence now operates as a museum. 

• Artist Tetsis Home and Studio - The house and atelier of Hydriot painter Panayotis Tetsis is a must. It's a "typical hydriot home of the 19th- early 20th c. and was also used for the family’s professional activities: one aisle of the ground floor was devoted to a traditional candle manufactory and grocery shop-tavern". 

Where to stay in Hydra

• Bratsera Hotel - Once a sponge factory established by the Verveniotis family in 1860, this space has been lovingly restored into a beautiful and unique hotel. Located just two minutes from the port, it features 25 rooms showcasing traditional Hydriot architecture, a magnificent garden, and a pool.

• Cactus Hydra Apartments - These artfully designed apartments offer a modern stay in Hydra. Located in the heart of the island, they provide easy access to local attractions and dining options.

• Orloff Boutique Hotel - Housed in a historic mansion, this boutique hotel features spacious suites, many with separate living areas, and a beautiful courtyard where breakfast is served.

Bonus points: there are no stairs to get to these hotels which you will come to appreciate after spending a few days here. 

Where to swim in Hydra

Hydra offers some fantastic swimming spots that cater to different preferences. The rocks between Spilia and Hydronetta are perfect for those who enjoy diving straight into the deep blue sea from concrete platforms or rocks. Further away, Avlaki Beach, located under Techne, is a small pebbly beach with concrete platforms, ideal for a more relaxed swim. 

For a more tranquil experience, taking a boat to the back beaches like Bisti is a great choice. Bisti Beach is known for its clear waters and tranquil environment, making it a perfect escape from the more crowded spots.

More things to do in Hydra

One of my favorite things to do here is walk (well you have no choice!) but also hike. If you visit during fall or spring, I really recommend the Mount Eros hike taking you to the top of the island. The hike takes around 4 hours in total and the views at the top will reward all that effort. I would strongly suggest avoiding this hike during summer (we first did it on a very hot July morning and let’s just say I still regret it).

Read about Hydra

One thing I always look forward to on Hydra is visiting the Hydra Book Club, a seasonal pop-up curated by Josh Hickey. Every summer, he puts together a thoughtful collection of titles, and over the years, I’ve discovered some of my all-time favorite books there.

If you're in the mood to read and want something that connects you to the island and its atmosphere, I highly recommend these: Peel Me a Lotus by Charmian Clift, The Colossus of Maroussi by Henry Miller, and The Greek Islands by Lawrence Durrell.

Notes from the island of Kythnos

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve visited Kythnos. Since my first trip in 2012, the island has changed quite a bit — but it still holds onto the quiet beauty that I remember.

Kythnos is part of the Cyclades islands, and just under two hours from Athens by ferry from Lavrio, which makes it a popular weekend escape for Athenians. Despite its growing popularity, it can still feel simple, serene, and beautifully unpolished.

After spending Easter here for the third year in a row, and almost every summer since 2012, I thought I’d put together a little guide with my go-to spots. It’s not exhaustive — just the places I genuinely love and always return to.

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My Kythnos Mini Guide

Favorite Beaches in Kythnos

• Skylou Beach – Secluded, peaceful, and worth the walk (just be ready for a bit of a hike down and back up).

• Gaidouromantra – A wild, open beach with raw beauty and very few people, especially on weekdays. Worth the drive if you're craving space and quiet.

Where to Eat in Kythnos

• Koutsikos – For grilled meats and hands-down the best spaghetti bolognese I’ve ever had.

• Arodou (Agios Nikolaos) – Beautiful setting by the water and amazing seafood.

Breakfast & Coffee

• Try the traditional Kythnian pies: Thermiotiki (with cheese) and Kolopi (with herbs) from a local bakery in Chora. Panochori is my favorite!

• For coffee, head to Kafeneio Thermia — perfect for a slow morning.

Favorite Day Activity

• Wander through the traditional village of Driopida. Grab a coffee near the main church, and don’t skip the loukoumades at Crusta.

• If you’re visiting in July, make sure to stop by the Thermia Project, an art exhibition held in the townhall at the entrance of Chora. Worth a quick stop, especially in the golden hour light.

That’s it for now! Feel free to reach out on Instagram if you plan to visit soon and would like more info on the island.

A slow guide to Amorgos

Amorgos isn’t just another Greek island — it’s a feeling. The first time I arrived, I knew I’d be coming back. There’s something about its raw, untouched beauty that instantly grounds you.

If you love rugged landscapes, soul-stirring views of the Aegean, and that sense of being somewhere slightly off the grid, Amorgos will speak to you too. It’s wild but peaceful. Quiet, but full of life. And with a surprisingly rich food scene — from humble seaside tavernas to creative local kitchens — it quickly becomes more than just a summer stop.

This Amorgos travel guide is full of the things I’ve discovered after multiple visits — the beaches I return to, the villages I love wandering through, and the places I always recommend to friends. Whether you’re planning your first visit or just want to deepen your experience, this is your starting point.

How to get around Amorgos

Amorgos has two ports: Katapola and Aigiali. Boats from Athens arrive daily, alternating between these ports, with the journey taking anywhere from nearly 6 to 9 hours. While the ride is long, it's absolutely worth it, so don't let the distance discourage you!

To explore the island, you'll need a car, as it's connected by a long, winding road that offers stunning views at every turn. You can easily rent a car on the island but make sure to book in advance for peace of mind.

I prefer to stay in Katapola, a village full of bakeries, small shops, charming rooms to let, and a beautiful beach perfect for a quick dip. From Katapola, you can take day trips to your favorite beaches and tavernas, or simply enjoy a leisurely stroll and a meal along the port.

Eating in Amorgos & my favorite local spots

Amorgos is renowned for its signature dish, patatato—a savory goat stew with potatoes in a rich red sauce. The island is also famous for its locally grown fava, a staple in many traditional meals. Amorgos boasts numerous kafeneia, which are more than just cafes; they are local hubs where you can savor simple yet delicious food, sip on raki, and enjoy a variety of mezedes. Below are all my favorite places to eat and drink across the island.

• To Kamari for their cheese and apple pies in the morning (Katapola)

• Naftiko Praktorio Prekas aka Naftilia tou Preka for simple dinners that last for hours (Katapola) 

• Amorgos Botanical Garden for drinks (Katapola)

• Tranzistoraki for dinner - every single dish on the menu is amazing but I especially love the "cheesecake" made with local spicy cheese (Chora, Main Town)

• Yasemi (Jazzmin) for breakfast and a game of backgammon or late night drinks (Chora, Main Town)

• Ston Pyrgo for lunch or dinner - I don't know where to start when talking about Pyrgos, the location, food, atmosphere and the family that runs this place are all incredible. Make sure to visit the archaelogical site just behind the taverna (Pyrgos village)

• The kafeneia of Kali Kardia (Tholaria village) and Moschoudaki (Langada village) for the most authentic experience of the island

Amorgos beaches, my go-to spots for a swim and a slow day

• Mouros and Mourakia Beaches: If you love swimming, exploring, and discovering caves, these beaches are perfect. Both offer clear waters and interesting rocky landscapes. Mouros, in particular, is known for its unique sea caves, making it a great spot for adventurous swimmers.

• Agia Anna Beach: For those who enjoy rocky beaches, Agia Anna is a must-visit. It’s my favorite beach despite its rocky seating, thanks to its stunning scenery. It’s ideal for a quick dive after visiting the nearby Panagia Hozoviotissa Monastery. The rugged beauty of the area makes it well worth the visit.

• Paradeisia Beach: Located on the southern coast, Paradeisia Beach is perfect if you prefer soft sand and clear waters. It’s surrounded by cliffs and lush vegetation, offering a tranquil and unspoiled vibe. Its secluded location means it’s less crowded, providing a peaceful spot for swimming and sunbathing.

• Levressos Beach: This beach offers a mix of rocky and sandy areas with clear, inviting waters. It’s a quieter spot, perfect for those looking to escape the more popular beaches and enjoy a serene environment.

• Gramvousa Beach: Accessible by boat from Kalotarissa Beach, Gramvousa features beautiful clear waters and stunning natural surroundings. It’s a fantastic place to explore and enjoy a more secluded beach experience.

  What to do in Amorgos on a slow day

• Visit the Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa, one of Greece's oldest monasteries —be sure to dress appropriately, with shoulders and legs covered, and bring plenty of water as the hike up can be challenging, especially on a hot day. Panagia Hozoviotissa was founded in 1017. Perched on a steep cliff 300 meters above the Aegean Sea, the monastery is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its unique whitewashed architecture blends seamlessly with the rocky landscape, and it remains a vibrant pilgrimage site. The monastery continues to preserve the traditional monastic lifestyle, offering visitors a glimpse into the cultural and historical heritage of the Cyclades.

• Explore the charming villages of Tholaria, Langada, and Asfondilitis—a deserted village known for its unique, drystone walls with single restaurant that operates without electricity known as the Steki (hangout) of Sofia Liviaki.

• Don't miss Katoi where you can find natural skincare products made with olive oil in their beautiful shop in the Chora. 

• Amorgos is great for hiking its famous "Blue Paths" who get their name from the amazing views of the Aegean they offer along the way. The Amorgos Trail Challenge, a run that takes runners from sea level to the highest point of the island, is organized in May. Please be careful and avoid hiking and running during the warm summer months. 

• Diving in Amorgos is a fantastic experience, especially if you love the movie The Big Blue. The island’s clear waters and beautiful underwater landscapes make it feel like you’re stepping into a scene from the film. You’ll find vibrant marine life, dramatic underwater rock formations, and serene dive sites that capture the magic of the sea.

  Leaving Amorgos (but not really)

  Amorgos has a way of staying with you long after you’ve left — in the color of the sea and the slow pace you try to carry back home. It’s not the flashiest island, and that’s the point.

  If you're planning a trip or just dreaming one up, I hope this guide helps you find your own favorite corners of the island. And if you’ve already been, maybe it’ll inspire your return — because Amorgos is that kind of place.