A slow guide to Amorgos

Amorgos isn’t just another Greek island — it’s a feeling. The first time I arrived, I knew I’d be coming back. There’s something about its raw, untouched beauty that instantly grounds you.

If you love rugged landscapes, soul-stirring views of the Aegean, and that sense of being somewhere slightly off the grid, Amorgos will speak to you too. It’s wild but peaceful. Quiet, but full of life. And with a surprisingly rich food scene — from humble seaside tavernas to creative local kitchens — it quickly becomes more than just a summer stop.

This Amorgos travel guide is full of the things I’ve discovered after multiple visits — the beaches I return to, the villages I love wandering through, and the places I always recommend to friends. Whether you’re planning your first visit or just want to deepen your experience, this is your starting point.

How to get around Amorgos

Amorgos has two ports: Katapola and Aigiali. Boats from Athens arrive daily, alternating between these ports, with the journey taking anywhere from nearly 6 to 9 hours. While the ride is long, it's absolutely worth it, so don't let the distance discourage you!

To explore the island, you'll need a car, as it's connected by a long, winding road that offers stunning views at every turn. You can easily rent a car on the island but make sure to book in advance for peace of mind.

I prefer to stay in Katapola, a village full of bakeries, small shops, charming rooms to let, and a beautiful beach perfect for a quick dip. From Katapola, you can take day trips to your favorite beaches and tavernas, or simply enjoy a leisurely stroll and a meal along the port.

Eating in Amorgos & my favorite local spots

Amorgos is renowned for its signature dish, patatato—a savory goat stew with potatoes in a rich red sauce. The island is also famous for its locally grown fava, a staple in many traditional meals. Amorgos boasts numerous kafeneia, which are more than just cafes; they are local hubs where you can savor simple yet delicious food, sip on raki, and enjoy a variety of mezedes. Below are all my favorite places to eat and drink across the island.

• To Kamari for their cheese and apple pies in the morning (Katapola)

• Naftiko Praktorio Prekas aka Naftilia tou Preka for simple dinners that last for hours (Katapola) 

• Amorgos Botanical Garden for drinks (Katapola)

• Tranzistoraki for dinner - every single dish on the menu is amazing but I especially love the "cheesecake" made with local spicy cheese (Chora, Main Town)

• Yasemi (Jazzmin) for breakfast and a game of backgammon or late night drinks (Chora, Main Town)

• Ston Pyrgo for lunch or dinner - I don't know where to start when talking about Pyrgos, the location, food, atmosphere and the family that runs this place are all incredible. Make sure to visit the archaelogical site just behind the taverna (Pyrgos village)

• The kafeneia of Kali Kardia (Tholaria village) and Moschoudaki (Langada village) for the most authentic experience of the island

Amorgos beaches, my go-to spots for a swim and a slow day

• Mouros and Mourakia Beaches: If you love swimming, exploring, and discovering caves, these beaches are perfect. Both offer clear waters and interesting rocky landscapes. Mouros, in particular, is known for its unique sea caves, making it a great spot for adventurous swimmers.

• Agia Anna Beach: For those who enjoy rocky beaches, Agia Anna is a must-visit. It’s my favorite beach despite its rocky seating, thanks to its stunning scenery. It’s ideal for a quick dive after visiting the nearby Panagia Hozoviotissa Monastery. The rugged beauty of the area makes it well worth the visit.

• Paradeisia Beach: Located on the southern coast, Paradeisia Beach is perfect if you prefer soft sand and clear waters. It’s surrounded by cliffs and lush vegetation, offering a tranquil and unspoiled vibe. Its secluded location means it’s less crowded, providing a peaceful spot for swimming and sunbathing.

• Levressos Beach: This beach offers a mix of rocky and sandy areas with clear, inviting waters. It’s a quieter spot, perfect for those looking to escape the more popular beaches and enjoy a serene environment.

• Gramvousa Beach: Accessible by boat from Kalotarissa Beach, Gramvousa features beautiful clear waters and stunning natural surroundings. It’s a fantastic place to explore and enjoy a more secluded beach experience.

  What to do in Amorgos on a slow day

• Visit the Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa, one of Greece's oldest monasteries —be sure to dress appropriately, with shoulders and legs covered, and bring plenty of water as the hike up can be challenging, especially on a hot day. Panagia Hozoviotissa was founded in 1017. Perched on a steep cliff 300 meters above the Aegean Sea, the monastery is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its unique whitewashed architecture blends seamlessly with the rocky landscape, and it remains a vibrant pilgrimage site. The monastery continues to preserve the traditional monastic lifestyle, offering visitors a glimpse into the cultural and historical heritage of the Cyclades.

• Explore the charming villages of Tholaria, Langada, and Asfondilitis—a deserted village known for its unique, drystone walls with single restaurant that operates without electricity known as the Steki (hangout) of Sofia Liviaki.

• Don't miss Katoi where you can find natural skincare products made with olive oil in their beautiful shop in the Chora. 

• Amorgos is great for hiking its famous "Blue Paths" who get their name from the amazing views of the Aegean they offer along the way. The Amorgos Trail Challenge, a run that takes runners from sea level to the highest point of the island, is organized in May. Please be careful and avoid hiking and running during the warm summer months. 

• Diving in Amorgos is a fantastic experience, especially if you love the movie The Big Blue. The island’s clear waters and beautiful underwater landscapes make it feel like you’re stepping into a scene from the film. You’ll find vibrant marine life, dramatic underwater rock formations, and serene dive sites that capture the magic of the sea.

  Leaving Amorgos (but not really)

  Amorgos has a way of staying with you long after you’ve left — in the color of the sea and the slow pace you try to carry back home. It’s not the flashiest island, and that’s the point.

  If you're planning a trip or just dreaming one up, I hope this guide helps you find your own favorite corners of the island. And if you’ve already been, maybe it’ll inspire your return — because Amorgos is that kind of place.